Evaluating the Location & Terrain 

 

When constructing a model railway layout outdoors there is a natural tendency to try to re-arrange nature and seek to impose your own thoughts and ideas on the landscape in order to create a more attractive miniature scene.

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This might involve building a high-level railway, forming a “mountain”, creating a pond or simply driving a cutting through heavy or  shaping the overall contours of the site.

 

Such groundworks are usually very labour-intensive requiring  considerable physical effort without the help of mechanised equipment. Moving tons of earth and rock from place to place is physically  demanding and not to be engaged in lightly.  

 

Preparing the site properly is likely to take quite a while and you need to get it right if costly problems are to be avoided later.

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Before you embark on anything too ambitious first consider whether these changes are absolutely necessary to the implementation of your envisaged design. Spend time observing the terrain and elevations across your site and assess how much work is likely to be required to excavate and backfill - then double your estimate!

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Sometimes it can be more beneficial to use the terrain that nature has provided you with and adjust your proposed scheme to take advantage of the prevailing topography rather than try to fight it .

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If the thought of hard back-breaking work does not deter you by all means press ahead. The effort will certainly provide you with plenty of valuable aerobic exercise.

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As a corollary of the foregoing see if the natural landscape can be used to enhance your layout ambitions rather than be a constraint. For example, if you have a steep rock outcrop consider a mountain line hugging the sides of the rock-face along narrow ledges; perhaps with switchbacks or loops to enable your trains to gain height. Use nature as a partner rather than an adversary to help you to create the right feel and aesthetic look to your layout.

 

Optical Illusions 

 

However substantial you build your railway you cannot hope to create scale distance equivalent to a real railway. On smaller layouts your train will only have travelled a short distance before they reach their destination or return to where they started. Even to build a short 5 mile line to 1:22.5 scale would equate to a track length of 0.22 miles (just over 1,160 feet). A considerable amount of compression is thus, unavoidable.

 

Example:  Visualise a point-to-point layout measuring 42 feet in running length. A passenger train, approx. 6 feet long, sets off to the other end of the line. When it arrives, it will have effectively travelled only 5 times its own length and even at very slow speed this will prove an  “underwhelming” journey, especially if the end of the track is clearly visible.

 

To add realism, it is necessary to use subterfuge to create an illusion giving the impression that the train has actually travelled somewhere at a reasonable distance from its starting point and remained their for some duration until returning to its original departure location.

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Visual Barriers 

 

The obvious solution to the foregoing issue is to install visual obstacles to prevent the casual observer from seeing the entire layout all at once regardless of from where they might view the railway.

 

Probably the most popular artifice is to construct a large mountain to hide the far side of the layout. Some modellers install a tunnel to  conceal a spiral “helix” track within the bowels of the mountain to  create a much-extended run before emerging through a portal the other side. Other ruses include a ‘hidden siding’ where the train simply stops for a brief respite on its journey before eventually continuing to its  ultimate destination and forests of trees to act as a visual barrier. Don’t worry too much about everything being perfectly to scale in this  situation. How tall is tree anyway?

 

You will probably find lots of other ingenious methods of achieving the same result in your further research so by all means explore (even smaller scale layouts) to see what might suit you best.

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Dioramas 

 

Many of you may be familiar with model “dioramas” where a particular scene is depicted by a three-dimensional representation where objects or models are artistically arranged in a natural setting against a

realistic background.

 

I would suggest that this is useful stratagem to adopt on a garden railway. Depending on the theme or nature of your layout you could replicate particular scenes reflecting a rural scene (say haymaking); a town or cityscape; a busy port; logging activity; or a mountain canyon setting, etc.

 

If these characteristic settings do not naturally sit alongside each other try to segregate them with discernible barriers such as rivers; roads; trees; and bridges to clearly separate each individual scene.

 

Creating False Perspectives 

 

We are playing more “mind games” here rather like a trompe l’oeil (a style of painting where the eye is deceived by creating an optical illusion). We have already mentioned using the available terrain to        incorporate grades (gradients) in your layout. There is a practical limit to the extent to which the track can rise and fall due to the inability of the locomotive to climb or descend such inclines.

 

However, there is nothing to prevent you from accentuating the impression of a train struggling up or down a relatively ‘easy’ gradient by making the surrounding terrain appear to rise and fall at the same time.

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Extend the Length of the Line 

 

Another ploy to break up the journey somewhat is to lay the track in such a way as to meander along the route circumventing natural hazards and physical barriers along the way. On certain lines (especially narrow gauge and industrial lines) this can look more natural and inject a greater degree of realism.

 

I have already referred to “hidden sidings” and ascending and  descending "helix loops" which can also extend the apparent journey time to useful effect.

 

Realistic Speeds 

 

I fully acknowledge that when we were much younger the main aim of playing with a model railway set was to see how fast it would whizz round the track before flying off the curve at an alarming speed. Just as well no real passengers were involved.

 

Now that we are older, and hopefully more mature, it is wise to run our expensive locomotives at a realistic speed as close to the prototype as possible. With DCC and Radio control it is now possible to allow your engines to pick up momentum slowly from rest and decelerate when approaching a station, etc. accompanied by all manner of “bells and whistles”.

 

This is harder to achieve using conventional DC power controllers (but much easier to achieve using modern DCC techniques) but the slower you can drive your locomotive the longer it will take to go around the track and arrive at its destination. By installing progressive loops, it may even be possible to extend a 30 second journey to several minutes significantly improving the overall “watchability” of your layout.

 

Exploiting the Existing Topography 

 

Surveying the terrain is a vital pre-requisite to be completed before you even contemplate laying track and naturally follows on from your initial site inspection.

 

Take your time to inspect the chosen site carefully paying particular attention to any obstacles both natural (trees, shrubs) and man-made (fences, paths, garden ornaments, ponds) which may be present.

 

Unless your site is completely flat you need to plan how you will either follow the contours of your garden or undertake earth-works to reduce the high levels and conversely, build up lower sections, dips and troughs so as to ensure that your locomotives can successfully navigate the line.

 

In determining the best way to utilise the existing topography make sure that any ground-works (especially moving earth from one location to another) are kept to a minimum as this task can often involve  moving tons of heavy soil which is hard work (particularly if you suffer from a bad back)!

 

Existing slopes can often prove to be an advantage but try to identify and work with the prevailing levels rather than spending vast amounts of time and energy on massive groundworks.

 

Be aware of the natural drainage and prevailing wind direction appertaining to your chosen site as well as the movement of the sun (if we are likely to get any). Endeavour to circumvent potentially boggy areas and land liable to possible flooding for tunnels and excavated   cuttings. Also avoid siting ponds, harbours, etc. under tree-cover (especially deciduous varieties) where leaves and assorted debris might prove a problem in the future.  

When deciding where to locate tunnels, cuttings, embankments, bridges and viaducts, etc. use common sense to avoid impediments which cannot easily be re-positioned. Try to steer clear of obstructions and potential hazards such as overhanging trees, washing lines, concrete paths, etc.

 

Also ensure that you will have access to the track on any part of the line as any derailments, etc., are bound to happen in the most unreachable locations. 

 

If in doubt the old adage "keep it simple" is definitely the most appropriate course.

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Surveying the Site 

 

There are various tried and tested methods for actually surveying the chosen site from the very basic techniques to the latest high-tech solution employing sophisticated modern lasers and measuring devices. Each approach has its place and there is no right or wrong way. Choose the method(s) of mapping the topography you feel most comfortable with.

 

• Rough Sketch 

 

Since time immemorial it has always been common practice to start with a rough sketch showing the overall layout, existing structures and approximate elevations of your proposed garden site (See Diagram A). From a fixed datum point show the approximate length and width of the plot (measurements do not have to be exact at this stage – normally counting strides is sufficient – but try to get everything in proportion) and note the position of any physical obstructions. This will help you to visualise what you have to work with and plan accordingly. It is recommended that you use A4 size paper for this task, ideally secured to a clipboard to provide firm support.

 

In today’s increasingly hi-tech world there is also another way and this is to use the incredible powers of Google Earth. Download the app (its free) and just pop your postcode in the box provided and within a matter of seconds you can be viewing your local neighbourhood from a unique vantage up in the air. Use the zoom facility to home in and magnify your location. You can also use Google Maps if you encounter difficulty in positioning directly above your proposed plot. The scale is usually indicated on the map. You can even measure distances by right-clicking between two points. Print this off and use as your preliminary plan.

 

 

• Preliminary Ground Plan   

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Next, convert this initial rough sketch into a more accurate ground plan using more precise measurements. This is to establish not only the true dimensions of the plot but also the relative height above datum level.

 

More accurate measurements are probably best taken using a simple 'grid system' where the site is divided up into uniform squares (1m or 3' or similar). Then marker posts (small sharpened hard-wood stakes approx. 2" x 2" x 30”) are  hammered firmly into the ground spaced equidistantly apart at each intersection (See Diagram B) using a spirit level (on top of a length of timber if necessary) to make sure that the tops of the marker posts are all level.

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Alternatively, especially if the layout is relatively simple, you can take measurements along the actual route of your line.

 

Either method will give you an idea as to where the ground is too shallow (and needs building up) or conversely too high and needs to be cut away. Soil excavated from the latter can be used to fill the former saving importation of more ‘dirt’.

 

The most difficult part is to calculate the differences in height at each junction marker. At this point the levels do not have to be that precise as any fine-tuning adjustments can be made when the roadbed is laid. You will need to establish a datum level from which all measurements are take - usually from the stake where the ground is at its lowest point.

 

You now have a number of ways of establishing any slopes (or grades) or undulations across the site designated for your layout. There are variants but the three most popular methods in ascending order of cost and complexity are as follows:

 

• Line & Spirit Level (Mason’s Level)  

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• Employing a Water Level 

 

• Laser Level 

 

 These are explained below:

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•    Mason’s Line & Spirit Level 

 

This approach involves stretching a non-degradable nylon

twine or braided cord (it helps if it is red or orange in colour)

across each dimensional line of markers from the first

marker to the final marker in the line. The line must be kept

very tight at all times and you will also need a ‘hanging’

torpedo style spirit level to attach to the line and regularly

check that it is sufficiently taut and level. 

(See Diagram C).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                              Diagram C

 

Next mark where the line intersects with each stake in the row with an indelible marker pen. Continue to do this at each intersection across the entire site.

 

Then measure the distance between the ground and the mark on the stake – write this on the stake in inches or centimetres as appropriate.

 

When you have done this at every stake transfer these  measurements to you plan to generate an elevation map of all the respective ground heights. Major differences are not necessarily a problem but can be good indication of where to introduce grades (inclines) on your layout without moving too much ground material.

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A variant to the grid system, providing that you already have a clear idea of the layout you plan to construct, is to insert the stakes along the actual route of your tracks. You can locate the marker stakes at the same interval as before (1m or 3’) or closer / further apart depending on the precision you feel appropriate. This way you could also create a 3D three dimensional view of your layout (more later in this Module).

 

For more detailed advice there is a website called “Levelpedia” (I kid you not) which explains everything you have ever wanted to know (and a lot more!) about levels of all sorts.

 

 

For info on Levels Generally:           

 

 

For specific info on Line Levels:       

 

 

•    Employing a Water Level 

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Another popular and well-publicised solutions alternative is to employ a simple device that has been around for many centuries (some say it dates back to the Ancient Egyptians but although they were responsible for an amazing number of inventions - especially to do with surveying - I was unable to find any evidence for this and it may have been discovered by the Greeks) called a “Water Level”.)

 

                                                           A water level is a simple low-tech device for establishing                                                             elevations at specific locations that are too far apart for a                                                             conventional spirit level to span and relies on the natural                                                             phenomenon that water will always find its own level.. It                                                               is sometimes more accurate than modern lasers over                                                                   longer distances.

 

                                                           

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You can purchase one ready-made from builders merchants, diy retail

stores and online or is relatively easy to make it yourself. The simplest

water level is made from a long section of clear tubing, largely filled

with water (you can use an ordinary garden hose provided you have

graduated sight tubes and vent caps firmly inserted at each end for

visibility and ensure there are no bubbles. If using glass tubes make

sure that they are unbreakable.)

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The ends of the tube are held in a vertical position, with the rest of the tubing laid on the ground between the two elevations to be compared. The level of water at each end of the tube will always be at the same elevation, whether the two ends are adjacent or far apart, as water always finds its own level (due to the atmospheric pressure). 

 

 

You will find detailed instructions on how to build a Water Level at  Wikihow. The addition of car washer fluid and a few drops of washing up liquid can also act as an antifreeze and reduce surface tension. Colouring the water with food dyes also helps to view the level. Make sure that you don’t lose any water whilst moving around the site.

 

There are also a number of YouTube videos explaining how to build and use a Water Level but my favourite is from This Old House which conveniently demonstrates all three methods of establishing a level grade line. Use this link:   

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First measure the height of both water levels at each end (either above or below the meniscus) using a yardstick or metre-rules on ground you know to be level. 

 

Both water levels should be exactly the same. If not identical check for bubbles in the tube.

 

Once again, starting at the lowest point, it is possible to use your water level in order to calculate the elevation of all the other points on the grid.

 

For the next step it helps considerably to have two people so that one can hold one end vertical (usually at the lowest point of the proposed line) whilst the other does the same at the far end where the incline or gradient is to be established.

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Each end is then measured from the ground level upwards using millimetres or fractions of an inch according to which form of measurement you have chosen.

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If you deduct one height from the other it will give you the increase in height or elevation from the initial marker to the secondary marker. For example if the first measurement reads 18.5 inches and the second reads 16.25 inches the overall slope from one to the other is 1.75 inches.  Similarly when using metric if the initial measurement is 323 mm and the next is 275 m the  increase in height is 48 mm.

 

Repeat the process around your plot either using the stakes already in place or you could also insert stakes along the actual line of the railway if you have a plan  already formulated.

 

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•    Laser Level 

 

At one time this professional high-tech solution would have been far too expensive for the majority of garden railway modellers but in recent years the cost of self-levelling laser devices has fallen considerably to around £50 making them a realistic option, especially if you envisage using one for other projects around the house. If you are a member of a local Garden Railway Club it is worth asking other members if they could either lend you a lase level Set or possibly club together to hire or buy one for all members to use.

 

It is desirable that the laser you choose for this task is capable of projecting a beam of high intensity light (rather than simply a spot) which is clearly visible in daylight conditions.

 

Many of today’s cross-line lasers are capable of working  at distances of up to 15m and even further if they are of the Receiver Detector type.

 

If you can rope in an assistant using a laser measure to calculate elevations can certainly help to speed things up once you have mastered the technology. If you do not possess a technological aptitude most people are content to do it the traditional and more primitive way.

 

Whatever method you use when you have completed your measurements transpose these to a large sheet of A4 or A3 size graph paper using a suitable scale e.g. 1 cm to 30 cm, to make a more accurate site drawing.

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•   A 3D Plan 

 

Many people (and I am one of them) find it difficult to envisage layout designs that are only in their minds.   Others experience difficulty in converting these thoughts into to two-dimensional drawings. Making accurate  drawings can also be a very time-consuming process if you are lacking the necessary skills.

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Some Track Planning Software has an option to view your finished design in 3D but to be honest I have never been able to reproduce a three-dimensional plan that looked realistic.

 

An alternative approach, advocated by garden railway expert Jack Verducci, or indeed complementary technique if you feel insecure dispensing with the paper method altogether, is

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It is certainly a down-to-earth way of visualising your layout in three-dimensions, even before laying any track , and is fully described by Jack Verducci in his excellent book "How to Design & Build Your Garden Railway" (Published by Kalmbach - ISBN-13: 978-0-89024-644-3) which is packed full of practical advice and recommended reading.

 

You may conclude that this is a lot of trouble to go to but in the long run it is probably a worthwhile investment of your time and energy

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    This is only a brief look at the options available but do your own research and decide what works  best          for you.

 

 

        Groundworks 

 

If you happen to already have a scaled up track layout

plan you can always mark this out on the ground  using

a can of fluorescent paint (an environmentally friendly

brand if possible.) This will give you a rough idea as to

whether your ideas are practical in the space available

and if the  proposed curved radii look right and are

achievable.

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               Grades or Inclines 

Then overlay the proposed line and establish where the adjustments to the surface have to be made in order to achieve the required elevations. Do not make the easy mistake of making your grades too steep as this may severely limit the length of train that can negotiate the line.

When building real railways inclines are kept to the absolute minimum and rarely above 2% on mainline tracks.

 

They don't have to be perfectly level but bear in mind that on inclines a steady grade of 1% is desirable i.e. 1' in a 100'; 10 mm in 1000 mm,  so that your locomotive can pull a reasonable number of cars or wagons without undue exertion.

 

You can increase this slope to 2% - 3% if you have to providing the incremental rise is steady (or even 4% if you are prepared to "double-head" your trains or use a more powerful locomotive for that stretch of line) but bear in mind that, as a general rule, for each 1% increase in the steepness of the gradient the potential length of train     reduces dramatically by around 50%. So for a train comprising a locomotive pulling 8 wagons on the level you could only run the same loco and 4 wagons on a grade of 1% and as few as 2 wagons on a 2% incline. Food for thought and possibly why some enthusiasts go for dead-flat layouts!

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This topic will be covered at length in a later Module.

 

 

 Clearances   

 

When determining the height and width of the track on your layout make sure that there is adequate clearance in tunnels or overlapping track for any locomotive or rolling stock you might wish to run, either now or at some point in the future.

 

You can measure this nominal minimum clearance by adding around 2-3 inches to the height and width of the largest piece of equipment you currently possess taking account of the height of the ballast and track. If you plan to use tight radius curves you may need to increase this further to allow for projecting stock overhang.

 

However, if there is any prospect of you wanting to operate a larger locomotive say, at some time in the future I would research the market and see if you can ascertain the dimensions of the largest product available in the scale you are planning to follow.

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Once again this subject will be expanded upon in a later Module.

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